Ensure that you have done everything to make sure that nothing turns the crank from this point onward! Disconnect all of the glow plugs from the glow plug harness. The connectors have a tab which must be squeezed to remove them.
Then remove the injection pump. This is done by removing the Air Cleaner and Throttle Cable Bracket, then loosening all 8 injector lines from their respective nozzles. Then, using a Crows Foot wrench, loosen and remove the 90 degree fuel inlet adapter from the end of the pump. Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump to the pump gear housing, and pull the pump toward the air intake.
Be sure to scribe a line between the pump and the housing so you can keep your timing adjusted! Remove the intake manifold by slowly loosening the attaching bolts a little at a time until all are loose. Note that this part requires a torque sequence to apply, so it makes sense to un-torque it accordingly. Once all the bolts are removed two are shorter than the others and are at opposite corners , gently pop the manifold off the engine.
No telling how long they had been there! The Valley Pan is secured in the front by a steel V shaped piece of plate steel. Water that falls on the engine is drained from the Valley Pan through this nut. The front and rear edges of the Valley Pan are sealed to the block with Silicone. My replacement pan came with special sealant and very specific instructions on how to apply it. Be sure to use a new Valley Pan, and follow the instructions that come with it when you re-assemble.
Note that in the photo below, that the front retaining strap and bolts have been removed and are lying on the pan. The left and right Valve Covers come off next. Mine were originally held on with large Phillips type bolts. I replaced these with stainless hex head bolts some years ago. Remove whatever type you have, and wiggle the Valve Covers off.
Next, build yourself something to keep your Push Rods and Rocker Arms organized in. It is important to keep the orientation and order of these parts exactly as they come out.
You do not want to install a Push Rod upside down, or use them with the wrong cylinder, or Rocker Arms. Imagine each piece as being unique and treat them as such. Note: The manuals seem to indicate that you should put the crankshaft in a particular position to install these things, so it would make sense to have it that way when you remove them. If you want to obey this instruction, then make sure you set the engine up that way earlier.
You might be able to rotate it still, but I feel once the timing gear for the pump is no longer on the pump, that turning the crank is not what I want to do.
Remove the bolts holding the Rocker Arms down, and lift each pair off the head with its bracket and bolts as an assembly. Do not separate these items. Keep them clean for re-installation with their oily covering unchanged. The lubrication that they wear will help protect them when you re-start.
Once all of the rockers and push rods are out, things get more serious. Head Removal:. At this point, your engine should be drained, stripped, and almost ready to take off the heads.
There are only two things you should do first. It is not necessary to remove the exhaust manifolds from the heads at any time. The second thing, is to remove the dipstick tube. I remember wrestling with the dipstick tube for 2 hours the first time I did the right head. The dipstick tube is press-fit into the block. I can offer no sure-proof way to remove it. I eventually got mine out by putting the tube through the hole in the handle of a crescent wrench, and prying against the exhaust manifold.
You will need to plan on installing a new one. A note about draining the block: Unless you remove the block drains, you will not be able to get all of the water out. I was afraid to mess with those things, so I used a shop-vac to suck as much coolant out of the thermostat housing as I could. This worked pretty well since when I removed the passenger side head, the small amount of coolant that did spring forth, did not go into the cylinders.
I then used the shop-vac again to suck water out of the rear block coolant passages. There are 18 head bolts per head. Loosen them slowly following the torque sequence in the manual. Remove all the bolts and washers that you can. Those in the rear that will not come out due to the firewall, or heater core housing will need to stay in the head until the head is removed.
Make note as to which bolts these are, since you will need them to be in the head when you re-install. I would work on removing only one head at a time. After you have removed all the bolts, rig a hoist to lift the head from the engine. But first, a story. I was a lot younger then. The first time I changed my passenger side head gasket, it still leaked when I was all done.
I ended up taking it to the Ford dealer to let them re-do it. This was my fear that I might fail again this time. However, I took my time, had better tools, and knowledge to use, and am glad to say I was successful. Having done the job both ways, I would never try it again without a hoist. Rig the head for removal as shown in the picture. Remember that the head has two alignment dowels in the form of two metal sleeves that sit in some oil passages between the block and head.
The heads cannot be lifted straight up. I accomplished this by lifting with the hoist, until the motor and truck started to move. The head then popped free. Note that the alignment dowels may stay with the head or block. You will want to capture them and set them aside. Professionals have a fancy leather bag to do this. Note that the alignment dowel came out with the head. This will need to be pulled out, and re-inserted in the block just prior to re-assembly.
I removed my Injectors and Glow Plugs after the head was removed. You could do it before hand if you prefer. After inspection, I recommend having the heads thoroughly checked. I took mine to my Ford dealer and had them check the valves. They found a cracked valve seat, which they replaced.
I then had them send the heads out for cleaning, and Magnafluxing to check for cracks. They came back with a clean bill of health. The picture below shows how I fastened wooden blocks to the heads to keep them upright and safe from nicking or scratching.
I also had my injectors tested, and one of them came back as being bad, so it was replaced with a new one. I also painted the heads when they came back, but did not paint the exhaust manifolds, which remained attached. When I painted the heads, I used the valve covers as a protective lid and put tape over the intake ports, and put paper towels in the injector holes. I used an old glow plug to cover the glow plug hole, the bad injector to cover the injector hole, and I just moved them from cylinder to cylinder as I painted that area.
When I painted the fuel filter stand, I left the old filter on, knowing that I would be replacing it during re-assembly. Putting It Back Together:. Surface Preparation and Head Gaskets:. The biggest difference between my Ford shop manual, and the Haynes manual, was the paragraphs devoted to the discussion of surface preparation prior to installation of the head gaskets. The difference was, the Haynes manual had one.
I attribute the lack of knowledge about surface preparation and the lack of the Haynes manual to my earlier head gasket replacement failure that I spoke of earlier. Besides, as well as the new Dodge Cummins runs, it is a bit weak below 1, rpm. At least compared to what happens beyond that range. Now there are three computers on board-which is one reason for the better factory numbers-that also have to be dealt with. Needless to say, the aftermarket responded to the challenge, and as a recent visit to Gale Banks Engineering proved, so did the new 5.
Our test mule was a Dodge pickup with an automatic trans and 4. It put out a respectable lb-ft of torque at 1, rpm and hp at 2, on the chassis dyno. Unstrapping the Ram from the dyno and treating it to a complete Banks PowerPack system would surely cure the relative laziness of this beast.
Installation of a PowerPack is relatively straightforward and could likely be handled over a weekend by the mechanically gifted. Getting the Quick-Turbo turbine housing and BigHead wastegate actuator in place would take the most skill, while plumbing the 4-inch stainless exhaust system requires the most grunt.
Wiring the boost and EGT gauges, replacing the intake and air filter, and plugging in the OttoMind are all simple tasks. At the Banks facilities it was all done in a matter of hours, and then the Dodge was strapped onto the 3, lb-ft—capacity dyno again. For this particular test Banks also experimented with a different electronic setup. All of our products are tested on vehicles in their stock configuration. We do not perform any testing on our products with those of other manufacturers.
The Banks Six-Gun with the appropriate airflow improvements will provide your vehicle with the maximum amount of power that is safe for your vehicle. The Banks engineers test new engines for development, and select those that will benefit by our methods of improving engine airflow, reducing exhaust backpressure, reshaping the fuel curve and using electronic engine-management technology to optimize performance.
Prototype power systems are built in Banks Manufacturing division, then moved to the Engineering Garage to be put through their paces on flow benches and chassis dynos in condition-controlled test cells. From there, it hits the road.
The usual test-drive course is a mile loop of varied terrain that rises to a long, 7-percent grade in the southern California climate. Trucks are driven in solo and towing form. Motorhomes are always loaded to replicate typical use. Banks DynaFact data-loggers continually collect an array of critical data, as the vehicle is in motion. Back in Engineering, the results are charted, checked and interpreted per SAE standards. Development is an evolutionary process: prototypes often require more engineering before they are pronounced ready for the street.
Those that do not produce significant gains never see the market. The power and performance results for each engine application are published in a comprehensive Test Report. We are always eager to have our products independently tested in the automotive media and make reprints of those articles available to our customers. So you can select the best power- and price-tier for your needs. Banks Git-Kits and Stingers are popular with guys who want a significant boost at an entry-level cost, who can save even more by installing the products themselves.
Diesel pickup owners can also choose the Big Hoss or Six-Gun systems and bundles with the optional Speed-Loader for optimum performance. Most systems can be upgraded, so if buying in stages is your thing, Banks can accommodate.
Because a lot of people still buy them. As long as vehicles with poorly engineered intake and exhaust systems that inhibit power capture a large market, vehicle manufacturers will continue to make them that way. They are understandably resistant to taking on the cost of re-designing these components and the mass-assembly techniques necessary to fabricating them.
But there is a portion of the market that is not satisfied with inferior quality. That's where Banks steps in. Banks has been taking advantage of the opportunities they create to improve power, torque, durability and mileage since We don't think that will change anytime soon. According to the warranty booklet that came with your vehicle the vehicle manufacturer can only deny warranty coverage if an aftermarket product causes a failure but makes no provision for denying warranty based on the mere presence of such a product.
Nor is there a provision for a blanket voiding of warranty coverage. You can visit our warranty page for a complete copy of our warranty statement which includes all of our products. That's a handy way some aftermarket sellers assemble a product on the cheap. They combine parts from various sources and market them as "kits" or "systems. Grab-bag kits are the opposite of components that are engineered to work in concert and built from the ground up—the way Banks designs systems.
Probably because they assemble them for less to begin with. A significant portion of Banks' development cost is in their engineering and product testing, unduplicated by other aftermarket companies.
Also, many manufacturers cut costs with cheaper materials eg: thinner-gauge, coated or galvanized steel and crude construction warped flanges, poor welds, sloppy tolerances for fit. Not us. Banks products are famous for their fit and durability.
They really don't exceed Banks, they know it, and they fudged the numbers. They only think they exceed Banks, because the tests performed were improperly conducted or skewed a most common phenomenon.
They do exceed our gains, but do so by subjecting the engine and powertrain to loads and temperatures above the durability limit. What good is all that power if it kills your vehicle?
Banks Power systems always maintain a safety margin, so engine, transmission and powertrain life is prolonged. Even Banks ultimate PowerPackage has built-in safeguards to protect the turbocharger, engine, and transmission for those owners who want to have the fastest, best performing diesel pickup around.
With Banks, you get the best of both worlds — power and safety. However, gear splitters do nothing to liberate power gains, so the horsepower and torque peaks remain the same as stock. The advantage of a gear splitter occurs only in the narrow range before and after a gear change.
Banks Power systems liberate power throughout the power range, providing a continual advantage at any rpm. No, once the iQ is connected it will automatically recognize both tuner and vehicle within a few seconds. You will then be able to use the iQ just like you did in the vehicle in which it was previously installed. It is important to note that not all Banks Tuners are iQ compatible or may require additional hardware. On most vehicles the OBD port is on the same circuit as the cigarette lighter.
The PowerPack components are completely compatible with the Banks exhaust brake, and in fact, many customers install both a power system and Banks Brake at the same time.
As opposed to backpressure, you could call this "frontpressure. So it should be very apparent that the Banks Brake causes no measurable wear on the engine. The real answer to this question is that a turbo-diesel engine is built to withstand huge pressure loads; it is lubricated against wear; and it is cooled by a radiator.
Your brakes aren't. Every time they are applied, they heat and they wear. They're designed that way—to be replaced. Using the engine to slow your truck is much more practical and efficient. It also saves brake wear and extends brake life between brake jobs. The SmartLock and TransCommand are completely compatible with each other. The wiring installs in a sort of "daisy chain" configuration, meaning that the SmartLock wires into the TransCommand, and the TransCommand wires into the transmission.
The function of the two units is also compatible, although they function under different conditions. The TransCommand increases line pressure in the transmission as load increases, but is non-functional when there is no throttle application. When used in conjunction with Banks Brake, the SmartLock is active whenever the exhaust brake is engaged, which is only when there is no throttle application.
When active, the SmartLock keeps the torque converter unconditionally locked down to RPM, and increases line pressure. As soon as you apply any throttle, the brake and SmartLock become inactive, returning the torque converter lock-up to whatever condition the factory electronics dictate, either locked or unlocked.
Banks Power systems release engine power potential by reducing pumping losses, so the engine produces power more efficiently, without working so hard. Translation: you'll use less fuel if you travel at the same speeds you did before installing your Banks Power system. The more you press the throttle it's pretty irresistible, but stay safe-!
You can contact one of our knowledgeable Power Consultants at to help determine which Banks system best suits your specific needs. A chip by itself increases horsepower by increasing fuel delivery to the engine. For people looking for a quick and dirty way to improve the power output, the addition of a chip seems like an easy way to go.
The downside to using a chip alone is, that without improvements in airflow, the added fuel also creates more heat in the engine, which can result in shorter engine life and in more severe cases, engine damage. Banks product is designed to increase airflow in conjunction with adding fuel.
This allows for a power increase that is safe for the engine, and the side benefit is that fuel economy increases, because as airflow restrictions are removed, the engine operates more efficiently. Simply adding fuel by using a chip can't give a fuel economy increase because the engine efficiency remains the same. All Banks systems function on standard fuels and octanes.
This applies to diesel fuel too, where cetane rather than octane is the main consideration. When we test our products, we "push the envelope" to see how far we can take power gains. As an inviolable rule, we pull back from the maximum and leave a safety margin to protect engine and powertrain durability. No Banks product exceeds the vehicle manufacturer's power, load or temperature limits.
There are many power-enhancing chips, programmers, and tuners for trucks these days. The interesting thing is that there are only a few people who actually manufacture the hardware, which means that most small companies selling these chips buy them from other companies.
Be aware that a chip, programmer, or tuner by itself can cause dangerously high exhaust gas temperatures on a diesel, or detonation in a gasoline engine.
This allows for safe increases in power, fuel economy, and engine longevity. Because we adhere to our "First Air, Then Fuel" rule, it is impossible for a properly installed Banks Power system to over-fuel your engine. As you know from Question 10, just adding fuel to make power creates so much heat it can ruin your engine and exhaust.
Banks begins by improving airflow, and matches fuel to it. With the engine breathing freely, the exhaust running cooler, backpressure drastically reduced and efficiency optimized, Banks unleashes more power without working the engine so hard, which prolongs its life and the powertrain components it operates. Even though Banks runs a cooler exhaust, the Monster exhaust portion of any Banks Power system is so indestructible, it could withstand much hotter temperatures.
Banks Power systems put a stop to the tendency of many vehicles to frequently shift between gears while climbing grades we call that behavior "shift-happy. No Banks Power system subjects any transmission to loads that exceed the manufacturer's limits.
Similarly, the Six-Gun tuner for diesel pickups includes safeguards to prevent overtemperature. Every vehicle will vary slightly and the location of the thermocouple pre or post turbo is a factor. This question is tougher to answer than you might think. There are two ways to measure exhaust gas temperature on a diesel engine: before the turbo turbine inlet temperature ; and after the turbo turbine outlet temperature.
When reasonably convenient, we recommend measuring the turbine inlet temperature, because this is the hottest—and most meaningful—temperature when evaluating the engine's performance. But when there's not a convenient place to put a probe in the turbine inlet side of the exhaust, the alternative is to mount the probe after the turbocharger, measuring the turbine outlet temperature. But this also presents a problem. The outlet of the turbo on the Duramax engine, for example, is shaped awkwardly, and the factory turbine outlet pipe is a very non-concentric shape to accommodate the outlet, so once again, there is not a good place to install a probe until about two feet after the outlet of the turbo.
By going that far downstream, the integrity of the measurement is sacrificed. Perhaps the best recommendation is to drill and tap a hole in one of the exhaust manifolds, and install a threaded pyrometer probe in there.
About the only way to be sure of this is to pull the manifold off of the vehicle to do the drilling and tapping. This is a highly debated issue. Some of the sentiments that surround this question date back quite far. Before diesel engines became widely popular in pickup trucks, the main use for diesels was in the long-haul trucking industry. Years ago, when truckers began to use pyrometers on their engines, the most logical place to position the probe was in the exhaust manifold ahead of the turbocharger, because this was the hottest portion of the exhaust stream.
But the earliest probes that were used had exposed junctions, and the weakness of this design would sometimes fatigue and fail under the high heat conditions. A failed probe would inevitably cause expensive damage to the turbocharger. The solution to this problem was to move the thermocouple downstream of the turbocharger, thus avoiding the potential damage to the spinning turbine wheel.
Knowing that the temperature would be lower in that location, it was expected that the operator would compensate for the difference by an appropriate amount. Today, the thermocouple probes that are used are commonly sheathed in a stainless steel shell that is impervious to the type of failure that an exposed junction thermocouple might experience.
This makes it safe to install upstream of the turbocharger. At Banks, we typically prefer to mount the thermocouple upstream of the turbo, but this is not always convenient.
In the case of the Ford Power Stroke, we opted to provide a bung in the turbine outlet pipe rather than having the customer go through the difficulty of drilling and installing a probe in a location that is hard to access. Our testing shows that the maximum allowable turbine inlet temperature of degrees is equivalent to degrees on the turbine outlet side, so that is our recommended maximum temperature when measuring in that location.
The temperature differential may be broader at lower temperature ranges, but the temp that we are most concerned about is at full power. There are two primary categories of stainless steel tubing used in automotive exhaust systems: series and series. The issue of heat cycling is of great importance, especially in a heavy-duty application that will endure greater levels of heat than other automotive applications. Not only is series stainless a poorer choice for exhaust systems, it is also more expensive and would unnecessarily increase the price of an exhaust system.
This means the series stainless will polish up better for appearance. Fortunately, series will handle temperatures of up to degrees without any deterioration, making it very suitable for use in exhaust systems.
We use series, specifically , for our entire exhaust systems, except the polished tip which is polished That's the part that you want to look good! Detonation may be a concern when the intake pressure of a gasoline engine is increased, as turbocharging does.
Proper engine- and boost-management are important in order to control such a situation. However, diesel engines generally are not prone to detonation, and turbocharging an older diesel should not be a concern. Depending on the engine make and miles accumulated, you may want to replace the head gaskets first. Yes, Banks Twin-Turbos have returned! Banks legendary Twin-Turbo packages are now available on complete Banks-built 6-liter engines producing up to horsepower. Twin-Turbo System kits are also available for installation on existing small-block engines.
There are even small-block high-performance engine kits designed specifically for Twin-Turbo setups. For complete information on these incredible Twin-Turbo packages designed for ultimate performance and visual appeal, contact your Banks Power Consultant. It is common to use different sized turbos when the turbochargers are "staged": that is, the compressor discharge from one turbo feeds the compressor inlet of the second, and the compressor discharge of the second feeds the engine.
The most likely problem is extreme heating of the compressed intake air. A charge air cooler intercooler should definitely be used to cool the air coming out of the second turbo. Propane is a quick way to make horsepower, but we have not seen a system on the market that we are satisfied with.
Most are somewhat crude in their design and use old carbureted forklift technology forklifts are usually powered by propane. During testing with one propane system, we experienced detonation on a diesel. While detonation is never good, detonation on a diesel is frightening!
Be very careful about the promises that propane systems may offer. The addition of propane to any diesel engine, whether turbocharged or normally-aspirated, introduces more fuel to engine, without additional airflow. Although it can be done, there is the constant danger of developing excessive exhaust gas temperatures, thus the possibility of engine damage.
It is for this very reason that Banks addresses airflow. Airflow is critical in the SAFE addition of fuel to a diesel engine, regardless of what that fuel is. For normally-aspirated diesels, the Sidewinder turbo is an excellent way to gain airflow and performance.
Some people opt for the lower cost of a propane injection system as an inexpensive way to increase horsepower, but the real cost may be down the road when engine damage occurs.
We've followed the interest in propane-injection systems for diesel engines, and tested several to see if they are a valid way of safely increasing horsepower. We uncovered a number of serious safety issues:. Before Banks ever sells a propane-injection system for diesels, these issues would have to be resolved in the course of our product development.
Towing in overdrive is fine on the flat highway, but as vehicle manufacturers recommend, downshift to a lower gear on grades. The vehicle manufacturer determines GVWR based on axle ratings, final gear ratios and suspension ratings, none of which can easily be altered. However, a Banks Power system allows you to tow within the GVWR more efficiently and easily, and to climb grades at a higher rate of speed. If getting under the hood is fun for you, and you've got the tools, why not?
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