The propane heater may require ventilation and the best option is to use the AC in your RV, if possible. This will help with any smell that is emitted from the heater as well as any excess smoke. Follow directions carefully and keep it at least 3 feet away from walls and other combustible building materials if you are using the heater for heat or to dry anything flammable. We own and operate multiple camping and RV Trailer site.
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Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment. Are propane heaters safe in an RV? Do you need ventilation when using a propane heater? Does a propane heater put off carbon monoxide? Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Your budget and needs are always going to be a factor in this decision as well. Continue Reading. Stock RV decor is almost always drab.
The manufacturers of motorhomes and travel trailers alike tend to stick to beige, brown, and gray. They do this to avoid offending anyone as bolder decor choices tend to do. The problem, of course, is that the end result is dull at best, and in many cases downright ugly. Camper FAQs is reader-supported. Buying through links on our site may earn us an affiliate commission.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. By subscribing you agree to receive emails from us. We will always respect your privacy and you can unsubscribe at any time. Buying Camping Maintenance Selling. The good news is hooking up an external tank is a breeze. Table of Contents. Get Our Free Weekly Newsletter! You can read codes for propane systems in RVs here. There are many ways to add a propane tank to your van build.
The simplest approach is to use the the disposable, 1-gallon cylinders which are inexpensive and can be purchased in many places. Others use a small tank that can be refilled such as this 5-gallon capacity tank.
These are most often installed in a box inside the van. I purchased this replacement tank for Volkwagen Eurovan Winnebago campers that were built between and from GoWesty. This size is important because, even at the smaller size, the tank barely fits where I placed it which is just in front of the rear axle underneath the van. The first step was to wrestle this thing into place.
Not only is it a tight fit in that cavity under the van but the emergency brake cables are also in the way. I used a jack, blocks of wood and plenty of colorful language getting up there. Then, I marked the the locations for the bolts.
There are mounting brackets on both sides of the tank itself. I bolted it into place with heavy-duty galvanized bolts through the van floor , locking washers and nuts.
Below you can see the tank mounted in this location from the front and the rear. Often these types of tanks are located on the side of a vehicle van such as on Volkswagen campers or inside a compartment on the side of a RV which means that the propane filling station can access the tank, and these valves directly.
In my case the remote fill was necessary since nobody is going to crawl under my van to fill the propane tank! The kit comes with all the fittings you need as well as 6 foot long lengths of high-quality hose for the fill and bleeder valve extensions. The first step of the installation was to attach the provided fittings to the remote mounting bracket. This kit comes unassembled. Honestly, getting all these fittings onto the bracket tightly was the most difficult part of the remote fill kit installation process.
At this point it was time to mount the remote fill bracket. I installed it directly below the fresh water fill and shore power electrical connection on the passenger side of the van at the very bottom of the van wall using rivnuts and two bolts through the provided mounting holes. The paint quality on the metal bracket was poor so I just spray painted it with Black Rust-Oleum.
With all the fittings in place, I needed to cut the provided hoses to the correct length and add the flare connectors to hook up the remote valves to the tank itself.
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